22 DTG-Petticoat & The Real Thing

My petticoat came in yesterday, but I didn't have a chance to try it on!

It came all petite-ly packaged, encouraging for transport

I carefully took note of how it was folded up, but it came with a step-by-step instruction sheet detailing how to get it back in its collapsed condition.

I LOVE how full it is, especially that the tulle layers hide the
"hoop look" giving extra fullness

Starting Construction


Although the Vogue pattern that I am using for the corset top doesn't call for underlining, the construction of the McCall's top that originally came with the dress, did call for one.  So taking the best practices from each top (since I merged some of both patterns, mostly relying on the Vogue pieces), I had cut two sets of lining for a lining and underlining.


I purchased 2 different colors of thread, based on best coloring matching of the various materials (taffeta, organdy, and lining).  And how I sew through the various steps can be determined by which threads I'm using in which positions (the top spool and the bobbin from underneath the machine).

• Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP 250 yds All Purpose 3620-Lavender Bliss (color matches taffeta)
• Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP 250 yds All Purpose 3340-Light Violet (color matches lining)

I baste together a piece of underlining on the "wrong" side of each piece of taffeta.  Basting stitches are longer because they are made to temporarily hold together 2 pieces until permanent seams are put in and are usually ripped out later.  I use 6 for basting (the longest setting on my machine) versus 10-12 for regular seams.

I kinda messed up because I forgot about the color switch trick for basting.  Instead of "wasting" some of the good, color matched threads for basting (because they're just going to get ripped out and thrown away later), I like to use black or white bulk thread.  The bulk thread is cheaper and is usually generic quality.  And by using a contrasting color to those that match the fabrics, it's easy to see what I need to make sure and later remove.

Instead, to baste, I used Lavender Bliss on the top and Light Violet on the bobbin, matching each thread to it's appropriate material side.

Underlining (seen on the turned up piece) basted to taffeta pieces 

The pattern calls for certain places of the pieces to be reinforced by "staystitching" on the edges.  Staystitching is a line of straight stitches, smaller than basting, usually about the same stitch length as what you use for seams.  Smaller stitch lengths are harder to unravel if something should pop and harder to pop if the seams strain.  In other words, smaller stitches equal a stronger garment.  Staystitching, occurs about an 1/8" from the seam (which is at 5/8" so I staystitch at 1/2"), and is used on seams that curve (such as at the bust) because this is where more strain will be placed on the garment.  On my garment, staystiching is called from between the 2 match up arrows on the sides of the front center piece (right where the bust will curve outward to accommodate Da Girls) and along the curve of the sweetheart neckline.

Staystitching between the 2 match up arrows on
sides of front center piece

To Do List

• Stitch all pieces together
• Stitch all lining layer pieces together
• Stitch down seam allowances on lining
• Stitch layers together
• Send off to mom