Using the modifications I made to the pattern pieces, I've cut a second set of pieces from the muslin to act as my lining layer and assembled them in the same manner I did the outer layer. The lining layer just does not have piece 8 (back band) on the edges of the back (see 46 Days To Go).
The lining does, however, contain the strips of boning that give the garment it's support and shape. Although I intend to wear my spanx and my strapless bra, every little bit of support to hold Da Girls up and in helps. Plus this will (hopefully) shrink the appearance of my waist by highlighting that it IS smaller than my bust and my hips, thereby making me look...better? Maybe. Suffice it to say, I'm not thin and angular anymore, like I was in my wedding dress when I could afford to go without the undergarments because what the dress offered was plenty when everything was already standing on end.
Anyway.
I'm going to put boning in the lining and once I've determined everything, take it out and reuse it on The Real Thing. To insert the boning, I need to sew channels for it to slip into.
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| After each piece of lining is sewn together and the seams pressed, I top stitch the seam allowance down, 3/8" away from the seam. |
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| This is what 'top stitching' looks like from the finished side - basically just another sewn line next to the seam This is done for a variety of reasons - looks, reinforcing the seam, tacking down the seam in thicker material (jeans), or in my case to create a channel for boning. |
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| Plastic boning comes in a canvas sleeve |
Some patterns call for the casing the boning comes in to be sewn to the lining and then the plastic kept in the casing. Since this pattern calls for channels to be made from the lining seam allowances, I'll remove the plastic part and discard the canvas outer layer.
The pattern calls for me to measure and cut pieces of boning the same length as each seam (10 pieces) then to cut 1" from each end of the boning and round the tip off. Since this is collectively a waste of 20" of boning (2" per piece x 10 pieces), I'll be measuring the pieces 1" from each end before cutting them. Duh.
I round off the edges using a nail file or piece of course grit sand paper. I want to be sure and avoid sharp edges. A lot of weight is riding on the pressure points of the boning, which could cause them to push through if there's any corners.
The lining would over hang the back edges of the corset where piece 8 was sewn on and the seams were pressed under. To solve this, the pattern calls for the lining back edge to be pressed under by 5/8", and to top stitch the seam allowance down 3/8" away from the folded crease, forming 2 more channels for boning (and providing another opportunity for support at the lacing edges).
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| Back edge channel for boning |
I follow the same procedure to cut 2 pieces of boning and round them off. The pattern also called for 2 pieces of boning in similar casings on the front inside edges, but this was when the front was 2 separate pieces that attached by hook and eye. Now that my front is one solid piece, this probably won't work for a place for boning. All total, I've got 12 pieces of boning. Note that the original McCall's pattern (with only 7 pieces) only had 8 pieces of boning. So I've gained 4 more pieces of boning and more support with this Vogue pattern.
I insert all the pieces of boning in their channels and...
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| Baste 5/8" from the lower and upper edges across each of the 12 channels |
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| Tops of a few channels that are basted - the corset is naturally curling up toward the camera now because of the curve of the plastic inserts. |
Almost there! But I'm exhausted and have a long day ahead tomorrow. Have to stop somewhere, so thus it is.
To Do List
- Stitch outer layer and lining together
- Turn right side, press
- Stitch together back seams
- Thread ribbon where grommets should be
- Try on!!
- Pray I don't need any more modifications (cause that'd be Mock Up 4)
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