21 DTG-The Real Thing, Continued

Started out today by stitching all the taffeta underlined pieces together, using Light Violet thread on both the top and bobbin.

Middle front pieces joined to center front
Notice all the thread ends that I need to keep track of
so I can remove the appropriate basting strands

Then I concentrated on piece 8.  Remember, this is the back band that the grommets will be punched through.  To reinforce these pieces, they aren't underlined like the other taffeta pieces of the garment.  These are the pieces that were cut from fusible interfacing, which has a heat/water activated glue built into it which secure it to the underside of the taffeta.  The "glue" side looks metallic, so I have to be sure and face this to the taffeta.  I learned the hard way about 10 years ago, that this stuff is NASTY when it sticks to the plate of my iron.


To join the pieces together, the instructions recommend placing a damp cloth over it and placing a high heat iron on top of them for 10 seconds.  I'm sure this is meant to leach the water from the cloth into the interfacing, but I have a very nice, very powerful steam iron, which works just as efficiently.  I just need to be sure and leave it on each second for long enough for fusion to occur.  Trial and error indicated 15 seconds and about 3 puffs of steam do the trick.

Pieces 8 with interfacing fused to them

I folded the pieces lengthwise and stitched across the upper and lower edges

Then I trimmed the seam allowances down to about 1/4", inverted the pieces so the right sides showed (using the technique with the skewer to turn out the corners as discussed when I made the mock up), and pressed the folded edge.

Then I based the raw edges together.  Again, I should have
used a contrasting thread color to not waste my Lavender Bliss
and to make the threads that I need to later remove, stand out

I pinned the piece 8 to the back edge, matching up
the alignment dots that had been transferred from the pattern,
then stitched the pieces down
(Lavender Bliss on top, Light Violet on bobbin)

I started to stitch the lining pieces together (using Light Violet on both the top and bobbin) when I ran into a HUGE problem.  Remember when I did Ashley's Alterations and I ended up hand stitching everything because the charmeuse was snagging when I used the machine?  Well, I ran into the same problem again with the very thin material of the lining.  It puckered horribly and started pulling runs across the fabric.


This usually indicates a dull needle or one that isn't fine enough for the type of fabric.  But I am using a brand new, size 11 needle.  Internet research gave me a few suggestions to try, but it'll required a trip to Hancock's tomorrow before I can move on.

• an even thinner, Martex type, needle in size 70/9
• specific thread made for silk fabrics (because it's finer)
• increase the stitch size
• use tissue paper as either backing or between the layers to provide a type of stabilizer that I would rip away after the seams are sewn

To Do List

• Buy finer needles and silk thread
• Test out some of the suggested techniques to find something that works for the lining
• Stitch all lining layer pieces together
• Stitch down seam allowances on lining
• Bind seam allowances of taffeta layer
• Stitch layers together
• Send off to mom