Thursday, February 17, 2011

24 DTG-Cutting Material

From the lining material, I've cut both the underlining and the lining for all the pieces of the corset top.


I left the pattern papers pinned to the second set of linings (2 of each piece)
and there's a set (2 more of each piece) that you can see in lavender.
Remember, there's 4 pieces cut for each pattern
(for a right and left side of the garment, both lining and underlining layers)
except the middle which is folded in half


I also cut lining for a few skirt pieces, but I've set the rest of the skirt and lining aside for now because I NEED to concentrate on the corset to get. It. Off. To. My. Mom!!!!!!  %&*#!!!  I am super feeling the pressure from the time clock.


Real quick, I knocked out what I need cut from the fusible interfacing.  I need 1 piece 10 from the skirt (waistband) and 2 piece 8 from the corset (back band - remember the fusing reinforces these pieces that the grommets will pierce).  




It was much easier to cut these pieces because I don't have yards and yards to manage of the interfacing like I do the taffeta.  My lack of an actual cutting table is frustrating at times like these.  My dining room table (4x6) with a chair on one end and the ironing board on the other end to lengthen the surface area and catch the overhang of yardage is cumbersome, but it works.  For now.


Now onto cutting the pieces I need from the taffeta, utilizing the same layout technique that I used for the lining.  I only need one set of all the corset pattern pieces from this material.  And the same pieces for the skirt as I cut on the lining, plus a piece 10.  But again, only going to cut what I need to of the skirt to determine where I need to take my corset pieces from and leave the rest of the skirt until later.


Here you can see each individual piece laid out carefully with
"right sides" up and in the order I need to sew them together


Taffeta doesn't really have a "right side/wrong side" to it.  But I'm a-type enough to want to keep track.  My thinking being that the "underside" of the fabric (the inside of the material when it's folded in half on the bolt) has been treated differently in processing, packaging and shipping than the "outer side" of the material which is exposed.  In case any slight variations exist that I can't see now, but may show as the fabric ages or is worn and then cleaned, I like to track the sides.  And since they look the same to me now, it takes some careful planning and purposeful intention with how I place my fabric now.  Hence the reason I unfolded and laid out the pieces, right side up as shown above.


For instance, piece 8 has not only match up arrows to be cut out of the sides, but also has match up circles on the interior of the piece.  They're best marked with a washable pencil on the "underside" (or wrong side) of the fabric so that in the course of sewing, they won't show on the garment.  I marked on the muslin with regular pencil without care about anything showing because ease saves time and the point of the muslin was to quickly assess pattern fit.


See the difference in how I cut notches into the edge for the arrows
on the pattern versus how I marked where the circles are


To Do List


  • Embroidery
    • communicate with mom
    • order pattern off internet
    • get supplies she needs
  • Begin The Real Thing assembly (cause need to get it off to mom in the mail!)
  • Browse/shop Michael's for beads and embellishments
  • Browse/shop for ribbon to lace up back - appropriate color and thickness

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