According to plan, I got into my undergarments, laced up the mock up and tried it on today. Since beginning this, I've taken it in 2 sizes from what I originally measured I would need (according to the pattern measurements). Bad news.
It still touches in the back. UG! I'm at my wit's end here.
The side seams do still dramatically flare out at the hip like the previous mock ups, so I kicked in those seams by 1/2 inch. And made that same adjustment to the 4/7/6 pieces of the lining that I haven't attached to the main body of the mock up yet. And tracked that change on my pattern pieces.
But I'm still completely at a loss to figure out how to make this work lacing up in the back.
So I got out my original picture and studied it. Consulted DH and my mom. And potentially have a plan to try.
Upon close inspection, the back lacing does touch at the bottom (hip line) but Vs outward at the top where the gap is greatest. While on the picture it looks like this is accomplished by narrowing the top of the back pieces (that'd be piece 6 in my pattern), I'm wary of doing that to my pattern. Right now those pieces run even all the way down the dress, lending support to the pieces attached to them that the grommets will run through. By tapering piece 6, I'll be cutting them on more of a diagonal angle, across the grain of the fabric, which can slightly weaken the support these pieces now supply.
So my next option is to taper in the tops of the seam between pieces 6 and 7 or 7 and 4. Mom votes for the seam between 7 and 4 because this is where the adjustments are made for the sizing differences, and I agree with her. But she recommended, instead of taking in the taper along the entire seam, to only take it off of the side of piece 7, leaving piece 4 alone. (This is the same concept as what I did to the bottom of seam 7 where it meets 6 when I was trying to fix that hip flare on the last mock up.) This makes sense because piece 7 is wider at the top than piece 4, so it would "even them up" as to what they're contributing to the measurements around me.
This involves more seam ripping. Of course.
I shaved off a tapered 1/2 inch from piece 7 where it meets 4 and re-sewed the new seam.
I tried on again and finally - SUCCESS!! Once I was laced in, there was a 1 1/2 inch gap in the lacing at the top, which tapered down to touching at the hip line. Halle-FREAKIN-lujah!!
To complete the mock up, I attached the 4/7/6 pieces on the lining back onto the main body of the corset. Then sewed down the seam allowances and reinserted the 3 pieces of boning on each side. I sewed together the tops and bottoms of the lining and outer layer over the replaced panels. Turned the garment right side out again, pressed the top and bottom seams, sewed down the back edges, laced it back up and tried it on one last time.
To Do List
I tried on again and finally - SUCCESS!! Once I was laced in, there was a 1 1/2 inch gap in the lacing at the top, which tapered down to touching at the hip line. Halle-FREAKIN-lujah!!
To complete the mock up, I attached the 4/7/6 pieces on the lining back onto the main body of the corset. Then sewed down the seam allowances and reinserted the 3 pieces of boning on each side. I sewed together the tops and bottoms of the lining and outer layer over the replaced panels. Turned the garment right side out again, pressed the top and bottom seams, sewed down the back edges, laced it back up and tried it on one last time.
To Do List
- Map out plan for embroidery
- which designs where
- communicate with mom
- order pattern off internet
- get supplies she needs
- Make clean pattern copies of much worked pieces (so far 4 and 7)
- Skirt pattern work - assemble and iron
- Lay out pattern pieces on lining and taffeta
- Cut final top pieces from taffeta and lining
- Begin The Real Thing assembly (cause need to get it off to mom in the mail!)
- Browse/shop Michael's for beads and embellishments
- Think specifically on the petticoat issue - get it ordered accordingly
Looking good!
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