Truth be told, my 10-day hiatus from this project was partially brought on by how gut-wrenching it is to have to tear something apart when it's this far together. So I did the taxes and took a side trip for another project (see Project: Ashley's Alterations). And I'm stalling. So first, I cut 4 new pieces 4 and 7 (2 sets-1 for the lining and 1 for the outer layer) out of muslin to the next size down. Remember, those are the only 2 pieces with any variations for different sizes. Because I'm going down a size, I'll sew them in first and then take the same knock in alterations at the hip line that I did before, testing if those are necessary now that everything will be tighter (being the next size down).
I stitched together all 4 of the new 4 and 7 pieces. Removed the ribbon I had lacing up the back.
Demolition
Then I started in with the seam ripper. *insert crying here as I toil over my garment*
First the back edges that closed the 2 sides together. Then turned the garment (now back to being essentially a tube) back inside out. And I removed the top and bottom seams only over the 3 pieces I need to remove from each size and layer. Remember, I have to do each of these steps 4 times because I'm removing from the lining layer AND the outer layer. The goal here is to leave the front center pieces as together as I can while only replacing the side pieces to save time, work and materials.
I took off the 4 back pieces (#6), and seam ripped the boning out of the lining at that seam (trying to preserve material here). And then removed the 4/7 combo pieces where they attach to the side fronts (piece 3) and took the boning out of those seams too. No need to rip 4 apart from 7 because I need to replace them with whole new ones and that's just wasted time and effort. But I did remove the boning from where those seams meet.
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| Here's what I was left with after demolition-hard to see, but this is lining side up and it's still stitched to the outer layer at the top and bottom seams. |
I pressed the outer edges back out flat (they were all folded over from ironing the seam allowances down) and repressed my pieces 6 that had been removed and were kinda hanging out by themselves.
Reconstruction
Then I sewed my pieces 6 back to the outer edges of pieces 7 and pressed the seam allowances.
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| Here's the lining version of the new pieces 4 and 7 with back piece 6 attached to the outside. Notice I left in the boning running on the very outside edge of piece 6. No need to take that apart since that seam isn't affected. |
Then reattached the replacement 4/7/6 pieces to the front part of the corset only for the outer layer. I need to experiment with the fit as to whether or not I need to kick those lower seams at the hips back in, now that I'm on the smaller size.
I pressed my seam allowances and will be ready tomorrow to suite up in my undergarments, re-lace this baby back up and try it on to see where I sit at the hips!
To Do List
- Re-lace back
- Try on!
- Make adjustments to hips
- Duplicate correct adjustments onto lining pieces
- Attach 4/7/6 pieces of lining back onto main body of mock-up
- Sew down seam allowances to re-insert boning (3 on each side)
- Insert boning, baste across ends
- Sew together top and bottom of replaced panels
- Turn garment right sides out again
- Press top and bottom seams
- Sew down back edges
- Try on 1 last time!
- Evaluate
- Get on to mapping out where I want embroidery
- The Real Thing!!
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