I can handle this a few ways: a) cut the largest piece out then just trim the fabric down to the size I need on the edges that require modifications; b) cut through the pattern on the correct line for the size I need and either keep track of the paper piece by labeling it or immediately taping it back on; or c) making a copy of the piece at the size and with the modifications I need.
Normally, I choose b. For the integrity of the pattern, in case I change sizes or need to use the pattern again for someone else, I try to immediately tape the cut off piece back onto the pattern, in the correct place. Trying to put pieces back on 5 years from now, when I may reuse it, is a pain and some of the cut offs are quite small and easily mistaken as scraps and thrown away. More about this later when I cut out the skirt pieces from organdy.
But since I also have made modifications to 4 and 7 in addition to just needing to cut down to a smaller size, I've chosen to re-draw them. This way I can extrapolate the seam allowance and mark the kick ins that I did on the lower section of these pieces before I even cut out the material. It makes for cleaner, more uniform pieces (important for the lining and outer layers to match up well).
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| My newly made pieces in the middle, originals to the outside |
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| Piece 4 - original on top, my copy on bottom I use black marker to outline after I measure out my extrapolations in pencil so it screams CUT ME HERE. |
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| Piece 7 - Original on top, my copy on bottom You can see the difference in the angulations I pulled in at the hip line |
I talked earlier about how the pattern instructions give a map of how to lay out the pattern pieces to minimize material yardage, so you don't have to play with the pieces to fit them together in the most economical way. They've already done it for you. But in this case I have to be different.
Of course.
See, the material needed was given as separate measurements for the top (7/8 yd) and the skirt (8 1/4 yds), which is useful when you're making only one or the other, or in my case, modifying any layer of the pattern (like I'm doing with the skirt). However, this can potentially waste a lot of material. The skirt pieces are very wide at the bottom and thinner at the top (almost like a triangle), so when they are laid out on the material, there's a lot of unused space where the triangle is thinnest. This is space where the top pieces could be taken out of, instead of all being put together on their own 7/8 yd of material.
So, to be most efficient, before I can cut the top pieces for The Real Thing, I need to do some work with the skirt pattern.
Pattern Work - Skirt
Remember long, long ago when I had separated my pattern pieces into piles - top, outside skirt layer, stay skirt layer? Well, my skirt piles need a little additional work. Because the bottom of the triangular pattern pieces are so wide, they generally don't fit on the standard length of tissue paper that the companies print the patterns on. So they put part of the triangle in one place and part of it in another on those sheets, and I have to tack them together. So as I ironed the wrinkles out of my pieces, I assembled the extensions (bottoms) onto the skirt pieces.
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| Pattern piece 8 (over the chair back) and it's extension prior to joining |
Skirt (Garment B)
Outer Layer - Organdy
- 6 & 6A - Side front & extension
- 7 - Front
- 8 & 8A - Back & extension
- 9 & 9A - Side back & extension
Under Layer (Outer Layer of the Stay) - Taffeta
- 10 - Waistband (only 1 cut from material, cut second one from interfacing)
- 11 - Side stay (cut twice to equal 4 total pieces)
- 12 - Front stay
- 13 - Back stay
- 11 - Side stay (cut twice to equal 4 total pieces)
- 12 - Front stay
- 13 - Back stay
Cutting Material
I start with the lining, spacing my skirt pieces well away from each other because I need to add length to it for a few reasons.
- At 5-9, I'm taller than the average woman's pattern is made for
- I plan to wear heels with this gown, making me even taller
- I plan to make more of those billowed pull ups on my version compared to what the pattern calls for so that takes more yardage (NOTE: This should only affect the outermost organdy layer)
- Patterns tend to only allow for a 5/8" hem on the skirt. For a full length gown, especially when using horse hair braid, I like to have a 1 1/2" hem.
- Since I have the material to spare, it never hurts to cut the pieces longer. It does, however, hurt to cut them not-long-enough. Why not be safer than sorrier?
I start with piece 12 because it needs to be on the fold as the front center. This leaves plenty of room above it for corset pieces. I need to cut each top piece twice, making 4 (or 2 in the case of the front center) of each piece because the pattern calls for an underlining and a lining. I didn't do this for the mock-up because it was made from muslin, a type of cotton which already has a lot of body. The more delicate formal fabrics need some help to add thickness and heft so a layer of lining is basted directly to the back of the taffeta, and the two layers are worked together as if they're one. (For example, mom will embroider through both of these layers and then the lining layer will keep the back of the embroidery from contacting my skin.)
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| Skirt lining #12, top lining #2, #3, #4, #7, #6 Room left for second cutting of #2, #3, #6 |
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| Skirt lining #13, top lining #9 Room left for second cutting of #9 |
- Embroidery
- communicate with mom
- order pattern off internet
- get supplies she needs
- Continue laying out pattern pieces on lining and taffeta
- Cut final top pieces from taffeta and lining
- Begin The Real Thing assembly (cause need to get it off to mom in the mail!)
- Browse/shop Michael's for beads and embellishments
- Browse/shop for ribbon to lace up back - appropriate color and thickness
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